Barolo 2009,
Ο Tom Maresca ήταν απογοητευμένος από τη γεύση του 2009, αναφέροντας την αποτυχία των οινοποιών να αντιμετωπίσουν πόσο δύσκολο ήταν το vintage ως ένας λόγος για αυτή τη «θλιβερή» εμφάνιση.
«Λίγες δεκαετίες του 2009 δικαιολογούσαν αισιοδοξία για τη μακροζωία τους και οι περισσότεροι παραγωγοί μίλησαν για το 2009 ως vintage για βραχυπρόθεσμη κατανάλωση αλκοόλ»
Ο τρύγος του 2009 του Μπαρόλο θα αντιμετωπίσει τους καταναλωτές με κάποιες σκληρές αλήθειες και μερικά σκληρά κρασιά. Δοκίμασα πάνω από 200 παραδείγματα του Barolo 2009 στο Nebbiolo Prima στην Alba τον Μάιο. Η πλειοψηφία των κρασιών που προσφέρονται κατά τη διάρκεια των πέντε ημερών της εκδήλωσης όχι μόνο δεν είχε κλασικό χρώμα Nebbiolo, αλλά δεν παρουσίασε σχεδόν καθόλου αρώματα Nebbiolo ούτε γεύσεις.
Λατρεύω τον Barolo και σέβομαι και θαυμάζω πολλούς από τους παραγωγούς του για την αφοσίωσή τους και τη σαφήνεια του οράματός τους. Ωστόσο, πρέπει να πω ότι σε αυτό το τρύγο η παράσταση πολλών από αυτούς δεν έλειπε απλώς, ήταν θλιβερή.
Φυσικά υπήρχαν εξαιρέσεις: αρκετοί παραγωγοί - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, για μερικούς - αποδείχθηκαν αρκετά πόσιμο Barolo. Μερικοί - ιδίως οι Pio Cesare και Massolino-Vigna Rionda - έχουν ακόμη πίστη στις δυνατότητες γήρανσης του κρασιού τους. Αυτή η γνώμη επαναλήφθηκε συχνά από εμπόρους και αγοραστές, οι οποίοι δοκίμασαν μια επιλογή από αυτά τα κρασιά μια εβδομάδα νωρίτερα από τους δημοσιογράφους, και με τους παραγωγούς (όχι τυφλούς). Αλλά για τον ουρανίσκο μου - και κατά τη γνώμη πολλών δημοσιογράφων στους οποίους μίλησα - οι περισσότεροι κατασκευαστές Barolo φαίνεται να έχουν υποτιμήσει σοβαρά τη δυσκολία αυτού του τρύγου. Λίγες δεκαετίες του 2009 δικαιολογούσαν αισιοδοξία για τη μακροζωία τους, και οι περισσότεροι παραγωγοί μίλησαν για το 2009 ως vintage για βραχυπρόθεσμη κατανάλωση αλκοόλ.
Το Giacomo Conterno, του οινοποιείου Aldo Conterno στην κοινότητα του Monforte, ήταν ένας από τους πιο ειλικρινείς παραγωγούς. Είπε: «Το 2009 ήταν τρύγος του αμπελουργού. Στα τέλη Αυγούστου, ορισμένα αμπέλια [Nebbiolo] ήταν ήδη σχεδόν ώριμα και μερικά ήταν εντελώς άγουρα - διαφορά σχεδόν 30 ημερών μεταξύ τους. Αυτό που κάνατε για αυτό καθορίζει τι είδους κρασί φτιάξατε. »Η συνήθως αισιόδοξη εκτίμηση του Consorzio για τη συγκομιδή φέτος είναι πολύ φυλαγμένη:
«Το vintage 2009 θα θυμόμαστε επίσης για το ακανόνιστο μοτίβο ωρίμανσής του… Όσον αφορά την τεχνολογική ωρίμανση, το vintage μπορεί να τοποθετηθεί μεταξύ του 2003 και του 2007… Όσον αφορά τη φαινολική ωρίμανση… τα δεδομένα που βρέθηκαν στα σταφύλια ήταν συγκρίσιμα με το 2003… σε αυτό το vintage τα αποτελέσματα δεν βελτιώνονταν πάντα καθυστερώντας τη συγκομιδή. '
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Γράφτηκε από τον Tom Maresca
Ενδιαφέροντα Άρθρα
